• Corn sugar, which grocery chain has it or alternatives?

    From Joerg@news@analogconsultants.com to rec.crafts.brewing on Fri Sep 28 12:19:35 2018
    From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.brewing

    Midwest Supplies has started to charge extra for corn sugar. Two bucks
    for 5oz. Hurumph! I still have some because I use much less than these
    (IMHO not accurate) carbonation calculators indicate.

    Which grocery chains carry corn sugar at a more normal price? What other
    sugar types can one use for bottle carbonation?

    I also always have clover honey but due to its high viscosity that's
    hard to dose.

    --
    Regards, Joerg

    http://www.analogconsultants.com/
    --- Synchronet 3.17a-Linux NewsLink 1.110
  • From baloonon@baloonon@hotmail.com to rec.crafts.brewing on Sat Sep 29 03:24:31 2018
    From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.brewing

    Joerg <news@analogconsultants.com> wrote:

    Midwest Supplies has started to charge extra for corn sugar. Two bucks
    for 5oz. Hurumph! I still have some because I use much less than these
    (IMHO not accurate) carbonation calculators indicate.

    Which grocery chains carry corn sugar at a more normal price? What
    other sugar types can one use for bottle carbonation?

    I also always have clover honey but due to its high viscosity that's
    hard to dose.

    I just use plain white sugar for priming, dissolved in some boiling
    water in a coffee mug and added to the bottling bucket shortly after I
    start transferring the beer to the bucket.

    I try to buy supplies from my local brewing store, but if I buy online I usually go to http://farmhousebrewingsuppply.com , which usually has reasonable shipping, or http://morebeer.com , which has free shipping on
    (I think) orders of $70 or more. Both sell corn sugar for less than
    Midwest. FYI, Midwest was sold to Anheuser Busch, if that kind of thing matters to you. Personally, I don't have a problem, but some people
    don't want to support them. It's not a bad idea to get on Farmhouse's
    email list -- sometimes they have some very good sales on hops.

    --- Synchronet 3.17a-Linux NewsLink 1.110
  • From Joerg@news@analogconsultants.com to rec.crafts.brewing on Sat Sep 29 07:36:24 2018
    From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.brewing

    On 2018-09-28 20:24, baloonon wrote:
    Joerg <news@analogconsultants.com> wrote:

    Midwest Supplies has started to charge extra for corn sugar. Two bucks
    for 5oz. Hurumph! I still have some because I use much less than these
    (IMHO not accurate) carbonation calculators indicate.

    Which grocery chains carry corn sugar at a more normal price? What
    other sugar types can one use for bottle carbonation?

    I also always have clover honey but due to its high viscosity that's
    hard to dose.

    I just use plain white sugar for priming, dissolved in some boiling
    water in a coffee mug and added to the bottling bucket shortly after I
    start transferring the beer to the bucket.

    I try to buy supplies from my local brewing store, but if I buy online I usually go to http://farmhousebrewingsuppply.com , which usually has reasonable shipping, or http://morebeer.com , which has free shipping on
    (I think) orders of $70 or more. Both sell corn sugar for less than
    Midwest. FYI, Midwest was sold to Anheuser Busch, if that kind of thing matters to you. Personally, I don't have a problem, but some people
    don't want to support them. It's not a bad idea to get on Farmhouse's
    email list -- sometimes they have some very good sales on hops.


    Ownership doesn't bother me, the people at Midwest are still the same
    and very friendly. That's what matters most to me. We have a local place
    but prices there can be 2x. For example, the ingredients for an IPA
    extract kit would cost me over $45 there while I get it as a kit for
    half at Midwest, free shipping over $30, meaning already for two simple
    kits or one of the more special beers. They also often have 10-20% off
    sales and that's when I order half a dozen kits or more.

    Farm House doesn't seem to publish the ingredient list and no other kit details, on their Koelsch I couldn't even see whether it's extract or
    grain. Due to cramped space and time I need extract. I am actually
    looking for a new Koelsch kit because Midwest took the specialty grains
    out and that can't be a good thing.

    If someone wants to check the links as well, some browsers require this version for the Farmhouse link to go through:

    https://www.farmhousebrewingsupply.com/

    With Morebeer they don't have a Koelsch but their Oktoberfest looks
    tempting. Plus they list the ingredients including the steeping grain
    contents which Midwest doesn't disclose. Thanks for the hints.

    I'll use plain white sugar then once I run out of corn sugar, like you suggested.

    --
    Regards, Joerg

    http://www.analogconsultants.com/
    --- Synchronet 3.17a-Linux NewsLink 1.110
  • From baloonon@baloonon@hotmail.com to rec.crafts.brewing on Sat Sep 29 20:05:59 2018
    From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.brewing

    Joerg <news@analogconsultants.com> wrote:

    On 2018-09-28 20:24, baloonon wrote:

    Farm House doesn't seem to publish the ingredient list and no
    other kit
    details, on their Koelsch I couldn't even see whether it's extract or
    grain. Due to cramped space and time I need extract. I am actually
    looking for a new Koelsch kit because Midwest took the specialty
    grains out and that can't be a good thing.

    I've only gotten hops from Farmhouse, and I wouldn't be surprised if they don't have the extensive number of kits as Midwest.

    Northern and Austin are two others with a ton of kits. I know that Northern has full recipes available (or did at one time). I don't know about Austin.

    When I did extract brewing there was a place that sold bulk DME for very reasonable prices, but I lost their address. It might be worth looking for them. For basic recipes it's not a bad idea to look into ordering the ingredients separately to see if there are savings that way. I've shifted toward the perspective that most recipes you see online are twice as complicated as they really need to be, and get caught up chasing false precision for things like color and IBUs and attenuation. If you keep a few base grains, a couple of types of crystal, a few specialty grains, and are willing to do a bit of toasting yourself, you can cover most types of beer. Likewise with hops -- I'm thinking maybe six or so pretty much covers the types of beer I like to make, and that includes English, US, German and Belgian.

    With Morebeer they don't have a Koelsch but their Oktoberfest looks tempting. Plus they list the ingredients including the steeping grain contents which Midwest doesn't disclose. Thanks for the hints.

    I'll use plain white sugar then once I run out of corn sugar, like you suggested.

    If you want to be truly authentic with German beers you can do a mini mash
    of some base grain and add that the the bottling bucket, but that seems
    like far more work than needed from my perspective.

    --- Synchronet 3.17a-Linux NewsLink 1.110
  • From Joerg@news@analogconsultants.com to rec.crafts.brewing on Mon Oct 1 16:45:26 2018
    From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.brewing

    On 2018-09-29 13:05, baloonon wrote:
    Joerg <news@analogconsultants.com> wrote:

    On 2018-09-28 20:24, baloonon wrote:

    Farm House doesn't seem to publish the ingredient list and no
    other kit
    details, on their Koelsch I couldn't even see whether it's extract or
    grain. Due to cramped space and time I need extract. I am actually
    looking for a new Koelsch kit because Midwest took the specialty
    grains out and that can't be a good thing.

    I've only gotten hops from Farmhouse, and I wouldn't be surprised if they don't have the extensive number of kits as Midwest.

    Northern and Austin are two others with a ton of kits. I know that Northern has full recipes available (or did at one time). I don't know about Austin.


    Full recipe is important to me before buying any kit.


    When I did extract brewing there was a place that sold bulk DME for very reasonable prices, but I lost their address. It might be worth looking for them.


    I have looked up and down for places that sell either DME or malt
    extract at reasonable prices but came up dry. It was mostly so expensive
    that buying and then modifying a beer kit is much cheaper. Shipping is
    often the killer. Beer kit sellers offer free shipping if the order is
    large enough. The base malt extract and DME places I found didn't.


    ... For basic recipes it's not a bad idea to look into ordering the ingredients separately to see if there are savings that way.


    There never were for me.


    ... I've shifted
    toward the perspective that most recipes you see online are twice as complicated as they really need to be, and get caught up chasing false precision for things like color and IBUs and attenuation. If you keep a few base grains, a couple of types of crystal, a few specialty grains, and are willing to do a bit of toasting yourself, you can cover most types of beer. Likewise with hops -- I'm thinking maybe six or so pretty much covers the types of beer I like to make, and that includes English, US, German and Belgian.


    For all grain that sounds like a good approach but for us lowly extract brewers life is less easy.


    With Morebeer they don't have a Koelsch but their Oktoberfest looks
    tempting. Plus they list the ingredients including the steeping grain
    contents which Midwest doesn't disclose. Thanks for the hints.

    I'll use plain white sugar then once I run out of corn sugar, like you
    suggested.

    If you want to be truly authentic with German beers you can do a mini mash
    of some base grain and add that the the bottling bucket, but that seems
    like far more work than needed from my perspective.


    Yeah, I don't want to go overboard with it :-)

    We still have some 5oz corn sugar bags because I found that the normal carbonation calculators are way off. I only use 2-1/2oz of corn sugar
    for a 5-gallon batch. It results in adequate carbonation and has cut
    down on the number of grenading bottles. Once the corn sugar runs out
    I'll switch to regular sugar.

    I just bottled a Pale Ale and a Copper Ale. Tomorrow I'll brew two
    Saisons. It's getting colder so I may have to heat the fermentation
    chamber for the first time this ear, since BE-134 likes it warmer.

    --
    Regards, Joerg

    http://www.analogconsultants.com/
    --- Synchronet 3.17a-Linux NewsLink 1.110
  • From baloonon@baloonon@hotmail.com to rec.crafts.brewing on Thu Oct 4 02:17:17 2018
    From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.brewing

    Joerg <news@analogconsultants.com> wrote:

    On 2018-09-29 13:05, baloonon wrote:>

    When I did extract brewing there was a place that sold bulk DME for
    very reasonable prices, but I lost their address. It might be worth
    looking for them.

    I have looked up and down for places that sell either DME or malt
    extract at reasonable prices but came up dry. It was mostly so
    expensive that buying and then modifying a beer kit is much cheaper.
    Shipping is often the killer. Beer kit sellers offer free shipping if
    the order is large enough. The base malt extract and DME places I
    found didn't.

    It's certainly possible the place I bought DME from is gone now.

    Looking around, it looks like you can buy 50 pound bags of DME for a decent savings per pound, even including shipping. DME in large quantities seems
    like it would be kind of a pain, though, since it's so susceptible to
    static electricity, clumps up at the hint of moisture, etc.

    I would guess it's also impractical if you use different types of DME.

    ... I've shifted
    toward the perspective that most recipes you see online are twice as
    complicated as they really need to be, and get caught up chasing
    false precision for things like color and IBUs and attenuation. If
    you keep a few base grains, a couple of types of crystal, a few
    specialty grains, and are willing to do a bit of toasting yourself,
    you can cover most types of beer. Likewise with hops -- I'm thinking
    maybe six or so pretty much covers the types of beer I like to make,
    and that includes English, US, German and Belgian.

    For all grain that sounds like a good approach but for us lowly
    extract brewers life is less easy.

    It may be more feasible than you think. The same base of light DME can work for with a minimash of a small number of malts for IPAs, Stouts, a lot of Belgians. If you're willing to branch out into slightly larger sized
    partial mashes, you ought to be able to do decent Brown Ales, Festbiers,
    dark Germans, and more. The nice thing about minimashes and partial mashes
    is that if you have room in the fridge you can do a gallon or two a couple
    of days ahead of time, store it in the fridge, and then add it to your
    boiling pot of DME on the main brew day if you want to shift your time a
    bit.

    With Morebeer they don't have a Koelsch but their Oktoberfest looks
    tempting. Plus they list the ingredients including the steeping
    grain contents which Midwest doesn't disclose. Thanks for the hints.

    Their shipping tends to be fast. I find their selection of ingredients is a bit limited, but they tend to cover all of the basics.

    I just bottled a Pale Ale and a Copper Ale. Tomorrow I'll brew two
    Saisons. It's getting colder so I may have to heat the fermentation
    chamber for the first time this ear, since BE-134 likes it warmer.

    I've got a Porter with a ton of chocolate malt finishing fermenting and I
    plan on adding some oak chips before bottling. With luck it will be good before Christmas,
    --- Synchronet 3.17a-Linux NewsLink 1.110
  • From Joerg@news@analogconsultants.com to rec.crafts.brewing on Thu Oct 4 07:35:17 2018
    From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.brewing

    On 2018-10-03 19:17, baloonon wrote:
    Joerg <news@analogconsultants.com> wrote:

    On 2018-09-29 13:05, baloonon wrote:>

    When I did extract brewing there was a place that sold bulk DME for
    very reasonable prices, but I lost their address. It might be worth
    looking for them.

    I have looked up and down for places that sell either DME or malt
    extract at reasonable prices but came up dry. It was mostly so
    expensive that buying and then modifying a beer kit is much cheaper.
    Shipping is often the killer. Beer kit sellers offer free shipping if
    the order is large enough. The base malt extract and DME places I
    found didn't.

    It's certainly possible the place I bought DME from is gone now.

    Looking around, it looks like you can buy 50 pound bags of DME for a decent savings per pound, even including shipping. DME in large quantities seems like it would be kind of a pain, though, since it's so susceptible to
    static electricity, clumps up at the hint of moisture, etc.

    I would guess it's also impractical if you use different types of DME.


    It would be impractical. We'd need sealed containers like we use for dog
    food. It would still clump every time it's opened. The only way DME can
    be stored would be in individually sealed 3-5lbs pouches and then it's expensive.


    ... I've shifted
    toward the perspective that most recipes you see online are twice as
    complicated as they really need to be, and get caught up chasing
    false precision for things like color and IBUs and attenuation. If
    you keep a few base grains, a couple of types of crystal, a few
    specialty grains, and are willing to do a bit of toasting yourself,
    you can cover most types of beer. Likewise with hops -- I'm thinking
    maybe six or so pretty much covers the types of beer I like to make,
    and that includes English, US, German and Belgian.

    For all grain that sounds like a good approach but for us lowly
    extract brewers life is less easy.

    It may be more feasible than you think. The same base of light DME can work for with a minimash of a small number of malts for IPAs, Stouts, a lot of Belgians. If you're willing to branch out into slightly larger sized
    partial mashes, you ought to be able to do decent Brown Ales, Festbiers,
    dark Germans, and more. The nice thing about minimashes and partial mashes
    is that if you have room in the fridge you can do a gallon or two a couple
    of days ahead of time, store it in the fridge, and then add it to your boiling pot of DME on the main brew day if you want to shift your time a
    bit.


    That is a good idea. I'll have to educate myself on that. I can get
    paint strainer bags for partial mash and I've also got dozens of smaller muslin bags. The main reason why I do not do full BIAB mashes is that
    I'd have to lift out the bag(s) in a cramped space, no way to install a
    pulley system, and my lower back isn't in good shape. Then there is the
    matter of disposing of the spent grain. All the folks I gave them to in
    the past had their chickens killed by coyotes, bobcats and the like so
    no more takers.


    With Morebeer they don't have a Koelsch but their Oktoberfest looks
    tempting. Plus they list the ingredients including the steeping
    grain contents which Midwest doesn't disclose. Thanks for the hints.

    Their shipping tends to be fast. I find their selection of ingredients is a bit limited, but they tend to cover all of the basics.


    I'll have to call them.


    I just bottled a Pale Ale and a Copper Ale. Tomorrow I'll brew two
    Saisons. It's getting colder so I may have to heat the fermentation
    chamber for the first time this ear, since BE-134 likes it warmer.

    I've got a Porter with a ton of chocolate malt finishing fermenting and I plan on adding some oak chips before bottling. With luck it will be good before Christmas,


    You guys are so patient. I already start squirming in my seat when
    waiting out the 12 weeks for a Belgian Quadrupel. Long story short I
    couldn't wait and cut secondary a week short. Had another one yesterday.
    Way too strong for my wife so they are almost all mine 8-)

    --
    Regards, Joerg

    http://www.analogconsultants.com/
    --- Synchronet 3.17a-Linux NewsLink 1.110
  • From baloonon@baloonon@hotmail.com to rec.crafts.brewing on Sat Oct 6 01:33:27 2018
    From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.brewing

    Joerg <news@analogconsultants.com> wrote

    Baloonon wrote:

    Joerg wrote:

    For all grain that sounds like a good approach but for us lowly
    extract brewers life is less easy.

    It may be more feasible than you think. The same base of light DME
    can work for with a minimash of a small number of malts for IPAs,
    Stouts, a lot of Belgians. If you're willing to branch out into
    slightly larger sized partial mashes, you ought to be able to do
    decent Brown Ales, Festbiers, dark Germans, and more. The nice thing
    about minimashes and partial mashes is that if you have room in the
    fridge you can do a gallon or two a couple of days ahead of time,
    store it in the fridge, and then add it to your boiling pot of DME on
    the main brew day if you want to shift your time a bit.

    That is a good idea. I'll have to educate myself on that. I can get
    paint strainer bags for partial mash and I've also got dozens of
    smaller muslin bags. The main reason why I do not do full BIAB mashes
    is that I'd have to lift out the bag(s) in a cramped space, no way to
    install a pulley system, and my lower back isn't in good shape. Then
    there is the matter of disposing of the spent grain. All the folks I
    gave them to in the past had their chickens killed by coyotes, bobcats
    and the like so no more takers.

    Partial mashes are really easy as long as you have a reasonably good thermometer and a brew in a bag online calculator handy or brewing
    software, so you know the right volume of water and starting temperature. You're just trying to hit a starting temp around 153F (varies by recipe)
    and generally just hold it there for an hour, which you can usually do in
    an oven or by putting the pot in a cooler, maybe with another container of
    hot water. You have some flexibility in temp too, so if you aren't exactly right it's OK.

    You can easily do two or even three pounds of grain in a two gallon pot,
    with a net of one gallon of wort. That gives you a lot of flexibility. You can't do a true Vienna lager, Bitter or Pilsner, but you can do a decent Festbier, Brown Ale, lots of Belgians, Stouts, fancier IPAs -- beers which need a good contribution of specialty malts on top of a base of extract.
    You can also do a fair amount of experimentation just for the heck of it.

    You generally want some base malt in there to help with conversion, but a
    lot of times what you're mashing is a well-converting malt -- say you're mashing rye malt for an IPA. It helps to have a fine grind on your grain, which can even be done in several batches in a blender if you don't have a grinder or can't get the store to do it.

    I've got a Porter with a ton of chocolate malt finishing fermenting
    and I plan on adding some oak chips before bottling. With luck it
    will be good before Christmas,

    You guys are so patient. I already start squirming in my seat when
    waiting out the 12 weeks for a Belgian Quadrupel. Long story short I couldn't wait and cut secondary a week short. Had another one
    yesterday. Way too strong for my wife so they are almost all mine 8-)

    It helps that I can't stay up late on weeknights and rarely have more than
    one beer. Also, my wife rarely drinks beer.
    --- Synchronet 3.17a-Linux NewsLink 1.110
  • From Joerg@news@analogconsultants.com to rec.crafts.brewing on Sat Oct 6 12:39:49 2018
    From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.brewing

    On 2018-10-05 18:33, baloonon wrote:
    Joerg <news@analogconsultants.com> wrote

    Baloonon wrote:

    Joerg wrote:

    For all grain that sounds like a good approach but for us lowly
    extract brewers life is less easy.

    It may be more feasible than you think. The same base of light DME
    can work for with a minimash of a small number of malts for IPAs,
    Stouts, a lot of Belgians. If you're willing to branch out into
    slightly larger sized partial mashes, you ought to be able to do
    decent Brown Ales, Festbiers, dark Germans, and more. The nice thing
    about minimashes and partial mashes is that if you have room in the
    fridge you can do a gallon or two a couple of days ahead of time,
    store it in the fridge, and then add it to your boiling pot of DME on
    the main brew day if you want to shift your time a bit.

    That is a good idea. I'll have to educate myself on that. I can get
    paint strainer bags for partial mash and I've also got dozens of
    smaller muslin bags. The main reason why I do not do full BIAB mashes
    is that I'd have to lift out the bag(s) in a cramped space, no way to
    install a pulley system, and my lower back isn't in good shape. Then
    there is the matter of disposing of the spent grain. All the folks I
    gave them to in the past had their chickens killed by coyotes, bobcats
    and the like so no more takers.

    Partial mashes are really easy as long as you have a reasonably good thermometer and a brew in a bag online calculator handy or brewing
    software, so you know the right volume of water and starting temperature. You're just trying to hit a starting temp around 153F (varies by recipe)
    and generally just hold it there for an hour, which you can usually do in
    an oven or by putting the pot in a cooler, maybe with another container of hot water. You have some flexibility in temp too, so if you aren't exactly right it's OK.


    That's almost like the steeping I now do. I heat 5-1/2 gallons to 158F
    and put in the steeping grains. That drops it to 155F which is usually
    the recommended temperature. The bag stays in for about 25 mins. I use
    two 1kW electric burners under a wide 13-gallon tamale steamer pot which
    is my brew kettle. Then I turn one burner off and the other to "1" which
    keeps it around 155F. I rigged a sensor for a radio thermometer which transmits to upstairs in the house so I can monitor things occasionally
    but can do something in the office. After 25 mins I pull it out, hang it
    onto a hook and let it drip, then I gently squeeze it out.


    You can easily do two or even three pounds of grain in a two gallon pot,
    with a net of one gallon of wort. That gives you a lot of flexibility. You can't do a true Vienna lager, Bitter or Pilsner, but you can do a decent Festbier, Brown Ale, lots of Belgians, Stouts, fancier IPAs -- beers which need a good contribution of specialty malts on top of a base of extract.
    You can also do a fair amount of experimentation just for the heck of it.

    You generally want some base malt in there to help with conversion, but a
    lot of times what you're mashing is a well-converting malt -- say you're mashing rye malt for an IPA. It helps to have a fine grind on your grain, which can even be done in several batches in a blender if you don't have a grinder or can't get the store to do it.


    On issue would be to store the grains. When I buy kits pre-crushed
    grains are in sealed pouches. Maybe ziplock is enough for fresh
    uncrushed grains. I can't have any freezer space except very little for
    hop pellets since the freezers are usually maxed out.


    I've got a Porter with a ton of chocolate malt finishing fermenting
    and I plan on adding some oak chips before bottling. With luck it
    will be good before Christmas,

    You guys are so patient. I already start squirming in my seat when
    waiting out the 12 weeks for a Belgian Quadrupel. Long story short I
    couldn't wait and cut secondary a week short. Had another one
    yesterday. Way too strong for my wife so they are almost all mine 8-)

    It helps that I can't stay up late on weeknights and rarely have more than one beer. Also, my wife rarely drinks beer.


    We both grew up in Germany where beer is considered basic nutrition :-)

    --
    Regards, Joerg

    http://www.analogconsultants.com/
    --- Synchronet 3.17a-Linux NewsLink 1.110
  • From Andreas Weber@info@tech-chat.de to rec.crafts.brewing on Sat Oct 20 12:01:03 2018
    From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.brewing

    Am 28.09.18 um 21:19 schrieb Joerg:
    ... What other
    sugar types can one use for bottle carbonation?

    I use Karamalz or Vitamalz (maltbeer) for this because it's easy to dose without a precision scale.

    -- Andy

    [1] https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Karamalz
    [2] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vitamalz
    --- Synchronet 3.17a-Linux NewsLink 1.110
  • From Joerg@news@analogconsultants.com to rec.crafts.brewing on Sat Oct 20 07:11:32 2018
    From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.brewing

    On 2018-10-20 03:01, Andreas Weber wrote:
    Am 28.09.18 um 21:19 schrieb Joerg:
    ... What other sugar types can one use for bottle carbonation?

    I use Karamalz or Vitamalz (maltbeer) for this because it's easy to dose without a precision scale.

    -- Andy

    [1] https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Karamalz
    [2] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vitamalz


    I remember those from my days in German, used to drink that as a kid.
    However, in the US we cannot obtain any such product. Over here kids
    drink root beer which ... <ahem> ... has a horrid taste.

    --
    Regards, Joerg

    http://www.analogconsultants.com/
    --- Synchronet 3.17a-Linux NewsLink 1.110
  • From Baloonon@baloonon@hootmali.com to rec.crafts.brewing on Mon Oct 22 01:58:30 2018
    From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.brewing

    Joerg :

    On 2018-10-20 03:01, Andreas Weber wrote:

    Am 28.09.18 um 21:19 schrieb Joerg:

    ... What other sugar types can one use for bottle carbonation?

    I use Karamalz or Vitamalz (maltbeer) for this because it's easy to
    dose without a precision scale.

    -- Andy

    [1] https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Karamalz
    [2] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vitamalz

    I remember those from my days in German, used to drink that as a kid. However, in the US we cannot obtain any such product. Over here kids
    drink root beer which ... <ahem> ... has a horrid taste.

    Sounds like Malta Goya, which is a non-alcoholic malt beverage sold in
    my grocery store with other Latino food made by Goya.

    I tried it once, and I'm not a fan.
    --- Synchronet 3.17a-Linux NewsLink 1.110
  • From Joerg@news@analogconsultants.com to rec.crafts.brewing on Tue Oct 23 09:36:32 2018
    From Newsgroup: rec.crafts.brewing

    On 2018-10-21 18:58, Baloonon wrote:
    Joerg :

    On 2018-10-20 03:01, Andreas Weber wrote:

    Am 28.09.18 um 21:19 schrieb Joerg:

    ... What other sugar types can one use for bottle carbonation?

    I use Karamalz or Vitamalz (maltbeer) for this because it's easy to
    dose without a precision scale.

    -- Andy

    [1] https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Karamalz
    [2] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vitamalz

    I remember those from my days in German, used to drink that as a kid.
    However, in the US we cannot obtain any such product. Over here kids
    drink root beer which ... <ahem> ... has a horrid taste.

    Sounds like Malta Goya, which is a non-alcoholic malt beverage sold in
    my grocery store with other Latino food made by Goya.

    I tried it once, and I'm not a fan.


    I think that's indeed the same. I used to like it as a kid where any
    consumed sugar is completely burned off same day. Now as an adult I
    dislike such sweet stuff.

    --
    Regards, Joerg

    http://www.analogconsultants.com/
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